A good croissant has 27 layers of butter and dough. Machines can do it faster, but we still fold ours by hand, three turns over two days.

Hand lamination lets us feel the butter: if it gets too warm the layers merge and the croissant turns bready. That is why our pastry team starts at 4 AM, while the kitchen is still cold.

The result is a croissant that shatters when you bite it and is soft and buttery inside. Try one plain first, then the almond.